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About Perfumes

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About Perfumes

Beauty Tips & Tricks : About Perfumes Information about perfumes
The fact that types of perfumes are so numerous may be astonishing. You may easily feel lost with so many new fragrances being introduced into the world market each year. Although there is no officially confirmed division, each of the new fragrances possesses certain features which allow its categorization to one of the following groups:

  • Floral fragrances: These fragrances are the most popular and they also cause the least controversy as for their reception by customers. Floral fragrances are designed either around the scent of only one flower, e.g. lily in Diorissimo by Dior (1956), or around the floral bouquet, e.g. Pleasures by Estee Lauder (1995).
  • Fruit fragrances: These fragrances are most often defined as fresh and light scents. They use the aromas of melon, lemon, orange, tangerine, grapefruit, or orange blossom. The most popular fragrances of this type are: Tommy Girl by Tommy Hilfinger (1996) and Acqua di Gio by Giorgio Armani (1995).
  • Ocean fragrances: These fragrances are the newest types of fragrances based on synthetic ingredients which smell like fresh ocean waters.
  • Green fragrances: These fragrances are made with distinctive and fresh aromas which remind you of environmental scents, for example: woods, grass, sour apples or lavender. Now the well-known fragrance of this type is Beautiful by Estee Lauder (1986).
  • Oriental fragrances: These fragrances are associated with Far East. Their base is designed around exotic spices and flowers, sandalwood and resin. The first perfumes of such kind were introduced in 1925 by Guerlain under the name of Shalimar. The oriental fragrances are very strong and in the eighties when there became very popular, they became also banned by the owners of some of the big companies in their office buildings. Oriental scents are not in fashion all the time. However, those who like them are usually very fond of them. The typical example here is Obssession by Calvin Klein from 1985.
  • Chypre fragrances: These fragrances are the smallest yet the most unique group of perfumes. Therefore women who love this scent will always love it, and those who cannot stand it, will never wear it. The basic note here is oak moss scent which gives it very specific aroma of soil. Then others notes of ciste labdanum are added. The complementary notes are: patchouli, rose or bergamot. The examples here are: the classic Aromatic Elixir by Clinique (1972) and recent Rush by Gucci (1999).

    Choose perfumes for yourself
  • The division of fragrances according to hair and skin types is no longer valid mainly because of changes in our everyday diet which has become varied. Therefore, every woman may choose perfume she likes and wants to wear following her intuition, taste and personality. The only test she should do to find out if she likes the scent or not is to spray a bit of perfume on her skin.
  • Do not decide to buy the best-known brand of perfume or the one which is 'on top' at the moment. This may not be a good idea at all.
  • To make a good choice, you should go to the perfumery early in the morning when you can smell things better. However, if you have a cold or you are tired, you should put off your visit till another day.
  • Try perfume on clean, non-perfumed skin. During one test you should try only up to three different fragrances because your nose will not be able to recognize more scents.
  • Do not smell the top of the bottle or its cap because the scent you smell is not the real one. You may smell an odor of alcohol instead. You should not also try perfume on the piece of paper but on your skin.
  • When you spray perfume on your skin for the first time, wait for about thirty seconds until alcohol evaporates. Then you will be able to find out what the top notes of perfume are. The top notes are highly volatile, evaporate quickly and do not last very long. The Base notes have a profound influence on the blend. They are very long lasting (come out 20 minutes to 2 hours later) and at the same time, fix other essences.
  • If you have already decides which perfume to choose, buy the smallest bottle of it. The expiring date of perfumes is usually up to three years from the manufacturing date. Even if you do not use your perfumes often, they may change.
  • Different fragrances are suitable for different age groups or for different occasions. For example, for a young woman green scents are more suitable than oriental ones. But for the evening meetings or dates you should wear heavier, more sensuous types rather then light ones which, in turn, are suitable for daylight use.
  • Fresh perfumes are refreshing in summertime while sweet and spicy fragrances can make you happy when the winter comes.

    How to use perfumes
  • We use perfumes on our skin in so-called "warm spots" where blood flows near the skin giving away the warmth of our bodyoutside. These spots work as small fragrance pumps.
  • They are situated on wrists, behind ears, in the inner part of elbows and knees, and on a neck near the collar-bone.
  • Perfumes will last longer on oily rather then dry skin. Therefore, before using perfumes we may use some Vaseline or oily cream.
  • Fragrances are more intense when it is warm. Therefore, in summertime you should either use less perfume or use the lighter fragrance.

    Good perfume advice
  • Try to keep your perfumes in dark and cold places so they can remain long-lasting.
  • Do not splash perfumes on silk because it leaves stains.
  • If you want to use perfumes which cause allergic reaction, try to spray it on your handbag or your hair or the parts of clothing which do not touch your skin directly.
  • If you want to find out if you are allergic to some fragrances, spray it gently on your wrist or inner part of your elbow. If after about an hour you notice some reaction, it means that the perfumes are not for you. It is better to perfume your body before you get dressed because you can spray more of your body then and it will not leave stains on your clothes.
  • Most perfumes are designed to last for about four hours. Some of them may last longer but they will change their scent then. Therefore it is advisable to use perfumes once or twice more during the day.

    Perfumes for a special occasion
  • Perfume for an important occasion should be subtle, delicate and unique. The way we will smell depends on the ingredients of the fragrance. Let's have a look at the main components to be able to recognize them in any composition. Beautiful fragrances are often produced from extremely smelly substances. Sensuous umbra, is e.g. the excretion of a sperm whale and when it's fresh it reeks of fish. Dried for a few months it becomes a valuable perfume ingredient with a warm, lush and sensuous aroma.
  • Musk is a good fixative of fragrant compositions so it is a basic component of all perfume. Natural musk has a disgusting odor of ammonium and it's a secretion of musk-deer scent-glands. Dissolved in an alcoholic solution it turns into a sensuous animal scent found even in delicate compositions.
  • Castoreum and tybet are similar to musk. Castoreum is a substance used by beavers to grease their fur and tybet is a secretion of a civet.-an African animal. Both ingredients give perfume a warm and sensuous note and they are much appreciated for their fixative properties . Vanilla with its balmy scent is a warm and sweet perfume componentwhereas cardamom is obtained from small grains of a slightly fruity aroma which are the base of fruity and woody scents.
  • Aninteresting perfume component which is used in men's perfumes is black pepper fruit oil and an extract from a field bean. Grass, moss and herbs make green notes.
  • Weitwer - a grass root of resinous and powdery scent dominates in the men's fragrances world but it can also be sensed in feminine ones. Provencal basil and geranium oil give flowery note. Oak moss and mace sage enhance, especially men's compositions, with an herbal aroma.
  • Also resins can be found in perfume. Myrrh and incense are tree resins that were used early in ancient times. The first smells like brush-wood and the other smells of a tree-root.
  • Benzoic resin that comes from Vietnam is characterized by a deep and intense smell.
  • Almost every fragrance contains a dose of sandalwood that makes perfume sweet, resinous and slightly musky.
  • Flowers are also widely used perfume components. Rose and jasmine are the most frequent. Although narcissus is also becoming more and more popular with its strong pervasive and stupefying aroma that permeates the whole composition.
  • Some other components are mimosa and bergamot. Although mimosa is delicate and elusive it has its fans. Bergamot is a small inedible orange and although it's a citrus its oil smells worldly and is presentin almost all types of perfume where it's in the top notes.
  • For more extravagant people there's a wide range of such modern and original fragrances as the smell of burnt rubber, metal and stone blended with the scent of drying laundry, hot sand and nail varnish. Compositions of black tea, smoke, resin, rubber and wood can also be found in perfume.
  • The more reserved novelty amateurs would probably like perfume containing such delicious aromas as: chocolate, fruit and vegetables (those without thick fleshy peel e.g. apples or tomatoes).
  • If you have decided what you want to have in your perfume you should go to a renowned perfumery where competent staff will help you find a desirable kind of perfume.

    Six more Tips:
    1. Don't hoard your best perfume for special occasions. It may spoil or evaporate.
    2. Keep perfume well-sealed in a cool, dark place- and in glass, because plastic tends to increase evaporation. Your refrigerator is a perfect place.
    3. If you are decanting perfume from a large bottle into a smaller one, avoid evaporation by using an eye dropper, not a funnel, to make the transfer.
    4. To be most economical, apply perfume with a spray or atomizer. You use less and get more out of it. Also, touching your finger to the bottle adds the oil from your finger and transfers hand lotion, soap, tobacco or anything you have recently touched to the perfume.
    5. Always apply perfume to a pulse spot- wrist, crook of elbow, temples, base of throat, behind the knees- where body heat can defuse it. Don't waste it by putting it behind your ears or on clothing or furs.
    6. When sampling fragrances, never experiment with more than three at a time. Your olfactory sense numbs after that. Wait at least 10 minutes before making up your mind; it takes that long for the alcohol to evaporate and for your body oils to mix with the fragrance.




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    Leather Glossary: Know Your Leather Terminology

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    Aniline Dying: The process of coloring leather using non-toxic aniline dyes. Aniline dye has no pigment, which allows for the natural signatures of leather to shine through.
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    Combination Tannage: Leathers tanned with chrome and vegetable tanning agents, resulting in both softness and body in the hides.
    Corrected Grain: When the surface of the hide is sanded or buffed to minimize flaws, then pigmented and embossed with a new grain.
    Crocking: The result of poorly dyed leather, in which color begins to rub off of the furniture.
    Distressed: Artificially created signs of "natural" aging.
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    Embossing: The process of minimizing defects in a hide and/or adding creative touches to the finished hide. The natural grain of the leather can be altered by etching, engraving, or electro-typed plates.
    Enhanced Grain: The process of creating a uniform grain pattern by altering the natural texture of leather.
    Finishing: The processes of treating a hide by adding multiple coats of dye that can enhance color, provide scratch protection, and resist staining. The extent of dying and the dye that is used affect the stiffness of the leather: aniline treatment results in soft, natural-looking leather.
    Full Aniline: An aniline dyed and finished hide will have no color adjustment and all natural markings will be visible.
    Full Top Grain: Premium leather that has been aniline-dyed but otherwise unaltered. The natural markings that remain provide the unique appeal of leather.
    Grain: The natural or embossed pattern and texture of the surface of a hide.
    Hand: A term used in the leather industry to describe the softness or fullness of upholstery leather.
    Hand-Antiqued: The application by hand of a darker color over a lighter color in order to create a unique aged effect.
    Leather Match: An alternative to 100% leather, leather match combines top-grain leather seating with skillfully matched vinyl on the sides and back of the furniture.

    Machine-Antiqued: The application by machine of a darker color over a lighter color in order to create a dramatic and creative appeal.
    Microfiber: A very popular leather alternative consisting of ultra-fine manufactured fibers that are easier to clean and maintain than genuine leather or suede. Microfiber is finer than cotton and even silk, and offers superior hand and softness.
    Milling: The process of naturally softening the leather by tumbling it in a drum.
    Natural Markings: The natural variations on hides such as wrinkles, scars, scratches, stretch marks, and discolorations. Most genuine leather will have visible markings, which is indicative of its natural origins.
    Nubuck: Top grain aniline leather that has had the upper layer removed via buffing or sanding, to create a nap effect. Due to the lack of a protective top layer, nubuck is prone to stains and requires more care than other leathers.
    Patina: A luster or shine that aniline dyed leather will develop over time and with use.
    Pigment Finish: The coloring of a hide with opaque pigments. Colored hides are more uniform and fade-resistant.
    Plating: A smooth, glossy finish created by pressing stainless steel plates into the hide with varying degrees of heat and pressure.
    Protected Aniline: Aniline dyed leather which has been pigmented to ensure color consistency and stain resistance.
    Pull-Up: The burst of lighter color that occurs when aniline leather is pulled tightly or stretched during the upholstering process as a result of the oil and waxes in the leather.
    Pure Aniline: Leather which receives its color from aniline dyes with no topical applications, such that natural signatures of leather are visible.
    Sauvage: A two-tone or marbled effect that adds depth and character to the leather. It may be created through tumbling, printing or painting the hide.
    Sinuous Spring: This construction features steel S-shaped spring components fastened to the frame from front to back using sturdy eight-gauge wire closely spaced and reinforced with horizontal steel supports.
    Soaking: The process of treating raw hides with water. Helps restore the moisture lost during curing and storage, and helps get rid of excess salt and debris on the hide.
    Split Grain: The second layer of a hide that has been split from the top grain, then finished, usually with pigmented dyes. Split hides are less flexible than top grain, and are used for shoes, clothing, and it is used to manufacture more economical furniture.
    Tanning: A chemical process which turns a raw hide into non-perishable workable leather.
    Top Coat: Synthetic transparent polyurethane resins applied as a clear protective coating to make leather more resistant. May be gloss or matte depending on the style and type of leather.
    Top Grain: When a hide is split into layers, the surface layer is referred to as top grain. Top grain is the most durable part of a hide split due to the strength of the fibers.
    Vegetable Tanning: The use of vegetable tannins to convert rawhide into leather. Provides more firmness and a greater body to the leather as opposed to chromium tanning.
    Vegetable Tannins: Tannins that are extracted from the wood, bark, and leaves of trees and are used during the Vegetable Tanning process.
    Wet blue: The light blue color that a hide turns as a result of the chrome salts used during the chromium tanning process.
    Weight: The weight of leather can be measured in millimeters as a thickness or as a weight in ounces per square foot. Thicker leather offers maximum protection and durability, whereas thinner leather offers more softness and comfort.

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