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Cleaning ancient coins

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Cleaning ancient coins

Cleaning ancient coins using the distilled water and olive oil method.
INTRODUCTION
The first step in cleaning ancient coins is to acquire some. Ancient coins are those older than medieval times and some of the most plentiful are from the Byzantine Empire. Uncleaned coins can be purchased singly or in lots of ten to a thousand or more. For your first venture into this form of treasure hunting, it would be wise to start small with ten or twenty coins. Expect to pay about a dollar each for these bits of antiquity. Also expect them to be mostly small and made of bronze. Most uncleaned coins offered for sale will have been gone over with a metal detector to winnow-out the gold and silver ones. Don't let this deter you, however, as a lot of the fun of this hobby is scrapping off centuries of dirt and corrosion to catch a glimpse of a laureate profile or Latin inscription.
When your coins arrive, they will be more or less disc-shaped and may sound metallic when jiggled. They will be covered with dirt or worse. Your task will be to clean them enough to see if you have attributable coins or worn slugs of ancient metal. If you are already familiar with collections of modern coins be prepared to lower your standards considerably. Perfect, uncirculated ancient coins are very rare and unlikely to turn up in odd lots of uncleaned coins. The standards applied to ancient coins make allowances for the centuries they have been in existence, squirreled away in usually damp and dirty hiding places.
Any coin that still shows traces of its original stamped image will probably grade poor to fair. Coins that have recognizable images and inscriptions will be good to very good to fine or very fine. Do not be discouraged if you find coins that have images that are off-center, contain holes, or show signs of having pieces sawn off. Remember that ancient coins were hand-made using blank discs of metal and special mint dies. A blank was placed on the bottom of the die, covered with the top die and stuck sharply with a hand-held mallet. Less skilful workers would produce sloppy coins. Large denomination coins were sometimes cut into smaller pieces to make change and coinage was often altered by succeeding regimes by piercing or re-striking. It was not uncommon for ancient people to make a small cut in a coin to make sure it was solid and not just plated with precious metal. There are collectors that specialize in altered coins. Don't throw anything away just because it looks less than perfect.

GETTING STARTED
Before you start cleaning your coins you will want to assemble a few tools and some chemicals.
Tools: A good source of light is essential. Craft shops sell magnifying lights that are very useful, especially if you do not have a stereo microscope. Empty baby food jars are very handy for holding liquids and soaking coins. You will need an old toothbrush for scrubbing the coins, toothpicks or dried rose thorns for picking out bits of dirt, and cotton swabs for working on small areas of a coin. Remember that ancient coins are fairly soft metal either bronze, copper, silver, or gold. You do not want to scratch the surface of the coin while cleaning it nor do you want to remove any patina that may have built up over the centuries. Your object is NOT to reduce your coins to shiny like-new condition.
Chemicals: Most of the dirt on your coins will yield to soaks in distilled water or olive oil. Do not use tap water, the chemicals in tap water can harm your coins and destroy any traces of patina that may remain. More encrusted coins will clean up after soaking in olive oil. Use the least expensive oil, not extra virgin. Very persistent dirt can be removed with WD40 and a combination of baking soda and vinegar. These last two should be used only as a last resort as they can change the color of the patina. Vinegar and baking soda can also worsen pitting on already-pitted coin surfaces.

THE CLEANING PROCESS
Sort your coins before you start cleaning them. If you are very fortunate, you will have some that will need very little cleaning to be recognizable. Keep these coins in a separate jar as they will not need much work. If you only have a few coins, put them in a small dish or baby food jar and cover with distilled water. Allow them to soak for an hour or so then pull one out and rub it with your fingers to see if the dirt is softened enough to remove. If your fingers get soiled, use the toothbrush to scrub away at the surface.
Do this with all the coins, one at a time, rinsing each one in more distilled water and drying carefully with paper towels. Examine each coin under magnification, either a hand lens, magnifying light, or stereo microscope. Some of your coins might be pretty clean just from the water soak. If they are still encrusted with dirt, a longer soaking, over night or for several days, in fresh distilled water might do the trick. Repeat the soaking, scrubbing, rinsing, and drying a second time.
Coins that are still encrusted with dirt and corrosion should now be put in olive oil. Use a container that has a tightly fitting lid so that you don't spill the oil accidentally. Dirty olive oil is very messy to clean up. Let your coins soak in the oil for a day or more. You can pull them out, brush them with the toothbrush and blot with paper towels, and examine them under magnification. As the dirt comes off, remove the clean coins from the oil but return the still-dirty ones for more soaking.

As the dirt and corrosion comes off the coins you should be able to see images and inscriptions. If, as you work your way through the cleaning process, you can't see anything you may have to accept that you have a worn-out slug, a coin that has been through many hands and all the images are rubbed smooth. Fifty years of constant circulation is enough to remove most vestiges of relief from a coin.
Patina is not present on all coins. It is a coating that develops on metal after many years of use. It can be greenish, brownish, or grayish in color and many collectors consider it one of the beauties of ancient coins. A coin with excellent patina can be forgiven a slightly worn image, for instance. NEVER do anything to a coin that will remove the patina or change its original color.
Coins that show good images, patina, and some inscription are worth a more careful examination under magnification. Here is where you will want to start picking with a toothpick or dead rose thorn. Work carefully under magnification and try to dislodge bits of corrosion from between letters and around details. If you have a hot glue gun, plug it in and drop a glob of glue on the coin. When it hardens, lift the glue off and a lot of dirt will go with it.

METHODS TO AVOID
Do not be tempted to use metal brushes, rock tumblers, dremel tools, or ultrasonic cleaners. All of these methods will result in smooth, shiny, metal slugs, NOT attributable coins. Also avoid the use of harsh chemicals. Experts make use of formic acid, sulfuric acid, and silver nitrate but in the hands of a beginner these chemicals can ruin coins and cause injury.

IDENTIFYING YOUR COINS
If you are very fortunate and discover a coin in very good or fine condition you will want to identify it if at all possible. There are many books available to help in the attribution process or you can take your treasure to an antiquarian for assessment. Some will do this for free others will expect a fee and some might even be interested in buying your find.
Coins of little or no value to a serious collector are still interesting and can be used to make intriguing pieces of jewelry. Craft shops sell bezels for enclosing coins to make pendents, broaches, or charms. Coins can also be mounted and framed for display.
Whether you find a valuable coin or not, the enjoyment of handling real money that ancient people used in their daily commerce is a big part of cleaning coins. You may develop a deeper interest in the history of Rome and ancient Greece and collecting the coinage of those ancient civilizations is like traveling back in time.




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Lightings: Ceiling Fan Buying Guide

Lightings: Ceiling Fan Buying Guide

Helpful Selection Tips for Purchasing Ceiling Fans
So, now that you are interested in a ceiling fan you need to be aware of the factors that should influence your decision. Our guide will walk you through:
  • Why You Should Choose a Ceiling Fan
  • How to Choose the Correct Ceiling Fan
  • How to Install a Ceiling Fan
    If you are unsure of the size or style ceiling fan that will best suit your home, or you are just looking for inspiration, browse our guide for ideas and suggestions.

    Why You Should Choose a Ceiling Fan
  • Instead of being bothered by that looming air conditioner that blocks your view, a ceiling fan will bring a noticeable difference to the cooling of your home. The natural breeze of a ceiling fan can make a room feel 2-8 degrees cooler instead of the unnatural chill of an air conditioner. Ceiling fans are also energy efficient as they work at a lower operating cost than any other cooling device.
  • Ceiling fans usually replace a central light so most ceiling fans come with built-in lighting or an optional ceiling fan lighting kit. If the fan does not include lighting, you can usually purchase a ceiling fan lighting kit that will complement your fan. Many fans also come with ceiling fan accessories such as a remote control, dimmer switch, or automatic controls that allow for easy operation while enhancing the value of your purchase. If your ceiling fan does not include a remote control, you can purchase one at your local hardware store.

    How to Choose the Correct Ceiling Fan
  • Selecting the perfect ceiling fan isn't just about choosing the right color or style. There are a few factors that must influence your decision in order to get the maximum efficiency and enjoyment from your ceiling fan.
  • You should begin your search by deciding where the fan will be installed. Most ceiling fans are placed in the center of the room, allowing smooth air flow throughout all corners of the room. However, for optimal air flow, larger rooms may be better suited with two ceiling fans. For safety reasons, a ceiling fan should not be hung over a bed. Additional room requirements that should influence your decision are:
    Room Size
    - 30" ceiling fan for rooms up to 8' x 10' (small bedrooms, walk-in closets, smaller kitchens)
    - 42" ceiling fan for rooms up to 12' x 12' (medium bedrooms, kitchens, small recreation areas)
    - 52" ceiling fan for rooms up to 18' x 20' (large bedrooms, family rooms, great rooms, dining rooms)

    Ceiling Height
    - Low ceiling: Combo mount or hugger ceiling fan without down rod
    - Standard 8' ceiling: Combo mount ceiling fan with down rod
    - 9' or Higher ceiling: Ceiling fan with extended down rod
    - Sloped ceiling: Ceiling fan with extended down rod

    You will need to check the floor to ceiling height for the proper placement of fan blades. Make sure you take into account the distance that the fan hangs from the ceiling. For safety, a minimum height of 7'-9' is recommended. If your fan does not meet the 7' recommendation, you can look into a low-ceiling mount. Building codes in your area may reinforce this.
    For optimum air circulation, it is most efficient to have the fan blade 8' to 9' above the floor. For higher ceilings see the chart for recommended down rod length.

    Electricity Matters
    Since ceiling fans require the same amount of power as most ceiling lighting fixtures, the electrical circuit shouldn't be overloaded. If the fan includes a light fixture, ensure that the circuit is able to handle both the fan and light. If your circuit will not hold this capacity, then a new circuit must be run from the home's main panel to the fan. If there was not a pre-existing fixture, you will need to create a place to hang the fan. If your home is not wired properly, some fans do have swag wiring that can be plugged into a wall outlet, but ceiling installation is preferred. It is easiest to install ceiling bracing and electrical wiring during new home construction even if you will be installing a fan at a later time. Consulting an electrician is always your best option.

    Additional Ceiling Fan Tips
  • Be sure to decide whether you want the fan to be a focal point or to blend into the ceiling
  • Ceiling fans should run clockwise in winter and counterclockwise in summer
  • For exterior installation be sure that all fan components are weatherproof
  • Choose fans built for damp or wet environments if shopping for a bathroom, kitchen or exterior space
  • Ceiling fans will not remove humidity from the air
  • Consult an electrician to ensure the ceiling is able to support the additional weight
  • Look for the Energy Star label which indicates that air moves 20 percent more efficiently than other models

    How to Install a Ceiling Fan
    Now that you have selected your fan, next comes the assembly and installation. Our guide has laid out the basic steps of installation, but unless you have experience with electrical wiring, you should always consult an electrician.
    In making your decision between hiring a professional or the do-it-yourself method, please review these facts about electrical safety:
  • Use extra care when working with electricity. Even less current than it takes to light a 60-watt bulb can be lethal.
  • All wiring should conform to local electrical codes as well as to the current National Electrical Code (NEC).
  • Never trust a light switch to render a fixture "dead," because sometimes the power enters at the fixture, even when the switch is located in the circuit beyond it.
  • Turn off the circuit you're working on by switching off a circuit breaker or by unscrewing a fuse.
  • Make sure the circuit is truly "dead" before touching any wires or terminals. Check with a high-voltage neon tester. Test from the black wires to a grounded metal box or other good ground, then to the white wires. Also test from the white wires to a ground. Since there may be more than one circuit inside an outlet box, before you take off a cover, see that all of its circuits are off. Also, be sure your tester is functioning by first trying it in a live receptacle.
  • Test your finished work with the power on using the neon tester. Check black to white and black to a ground. It should light. Test white to ground as it should not light.
  • If you aren't knowledgeable about working around electricity or do not feel comfortable, call in a professional.

    Instructions will vary from one manufacturer to another, but the basic steps you will follow are:
  • Remove the existing light fixture
  • Make sure the existing electrical box is secure enough to support the extra weight of a fan
  • Assemble the fan and install it

    If you have chosen to do the installation your self, these 8 steps will guide you on your way.
    Step 1: Turn off the power
    Turn off the power to the light's circuit breaker or fuse at the service panel. Once this is done, only then should you remove the light fixture. This can be tested by flipping wall switches or using a circuit tester on the actual light fixture.
    If there is a pre-existing fixture, remove it and disconnect the wiring. You will also need to remove the old support brace from the electrical box and fasten the new mounting bracket. Keep the wire nuts that hold the existing wires together as they can be reused.
    Step 2: Determine the Center of the Room
    If there is no central light fixture, snap diagonal chalk lines from opposite corners of the room to find its center. Determine whether the lines cross exactly below a ceiling joist. If they do, move aside just far enough between the joists to fasten the side of the fan's new junction box directly to the joist.
    Step 3: Install the Junction Box
  • Cut a hole large enough for the junction box to be slipped in. Again, if it's next to the joist, drill holes in its side and screw it to the joist. Installation between joists is fine.
  • Fasten the junction box to a 2" x 4" header nailed between the joists. It is also possible to insert a 2" x 4" header through the junction box's hole, nailing it to each joist. If not, you may need to open a larger access hole.
  • Use only a metal junction box to support a ceiling fan, never hang the fan from a plastic box. Depending on the brand, style, and size of your ceiling fan, and your electrical code, you may use a 4" or 3" octagonal junction box. However, some local codes don't permit the use of 3" boxes.
  • The heaviest fan that should be supported by a junction box is 35 pounds. If it weighs more, the building structure must support it. All fans create vibrations when running, so your mount must be able to withstand the vibrations.
  • If you can't reach the box, such as when working through a first-floor ceiling in a 2-story home, a specialized fan support unit designed to be inserted through the normal junction box hole will save you from opening a hole in the ceiling. Retrofit fan-support boxes are available at most hardware stores.
  • When mounting to a beamed ceiling there are different mounts for horizontal and pitched beams. You may need an extender to lower the fan to the proper level. Proper mounting is extremely important because failure to make all components secure could cause your fan to fall from the ceiling.
    Step 4: Wire the Ceiling Fan
  • To ensure the electrical box is mounted securely, it should be mounted to a wooden or metal frame (kits can be purchased to add additional support). Screws must be as tight as possible because loose attachments in may cause the fan to wobble and cause excess noise or wear.
  • While working on the wiring, use the ?wiring hook? that is provided to hang the fan.
  • Attach the wires by following the standard color coding system: white to white, black or blue to black or blue, green to ground (green or bare copper). Cover each connection with a securely screwed-on wire nut. Keep extra wiring out of the way by pushing it into the electrical box.

    Step 5: Assemble the Ceiling Fan
  • Follow the specific instructions of the manufacturer first. Most fan blades have a two-pronged attachment, using screws that come through holes in the blades and into the prongs. These need to be drawn up securely, but not so tightly that the threads are damaged or the laminated blade material is crushed.
  • On many fans, you'll find that the prongs also need to be mounted to the motor housing. If this is the case, mount them before the prongs are mounted to the blades themselves.
  • Once you start mounting the blade/bracket assemblies to the fan motor, you may need 3 or 4 hands as it can be an awkward job.
  • The manufacturer's instructions may say otherwise, but if the fan blades are less than a screwdriver's length away from the ceiling, it may be best to install the blades before hanging the fan.
  • Some fans use a "speed ring" which allows you to assemble the blades on the floor and then attach them to the motor after it has been installed on the ceiling. To do this: Fasten each blade to the speed ring, then attach the assembled ring to the motor unit using rubber grommets and fastening screws. Attach the cover over the speed ring and install the decorative cover plate.
    Step 6: Install the Ceiling Fan Fan
  • Install the hanger bracket on the box with screws and lock washers. If no lock washers are supplied, you should purchase some as they prevent fan vibrations from loosening the screws over time.
  • The hanger bracket may accept either a half-ball hanger or a hook-type hanger, depending on your fan. Either way, the hanger is carefully slipped into the bracket.
  • Attach the fan canopy to the fan motor housing by screwing the mounting ring in place. If you have high ceilings, you may also want to attach a hanger pipe.
  • Hang the assembled motor unit from the two hooks on the mounting bracket.
  • Reconnect the wires, starting with the ground wire.
  • Be sure to connect the black house wires to the black fan wires, and the white house wires to the white fan wires.
  • Connect the ground wires from the box, the fan and the power supply together with a wire nut.
  • Tuck all wires inside the canopy and secure the canopy to the mounting bracket.
  • After completing the wiring the ceiling cover is slipped up to its full height and tightened in place.
  • Attach the fan motor to the mounting bracket with the provided screws. Turn the power back on and make sure the connections are good - remember to have both the wall switch and the pull-cord switch on the fan in the "On" position.
  • You can easily install a ceiling fan light kit, loosen the screws that hold the cap on the fan's switch housing bracket on the bottom. With the cap removed, you'll see a bundle of wires. Of these wires, two will be labeled for use with the light kit. One will be white (neutral) and the other will be black, red or blue (hot).
  • Before wiring the lamp, however, install the adapter ring included with the ceiling fan kit bracket. The adapter serves as a reducing ring for the lamp housing. Attach the adapter ring with the screws provided.
  • Pull the two labeled wires through the adapter ring, lift the lamp and make the wiring connections. Join the two white wires with a wire connector and the fixture's black wire to the remaining labeled wire bracket. Fasten the light kit to the fan with the screws provided.
    Step 8: Prepare Your Ceiling Fan for Action
  • Turn the ceiling fan motor on, and set the fan to its highest speed
  • Turn off the power at the circuit breaker
  • Turn the power back on; test the fan again
  • Look for wobbling or excessive noise that can usually be corrected by pushing the unit gently until it hangs level

    It is also possible to use a swag wiring kit for super-easy installation and a degree of portability in a ceiling fan. This does not require ceiling wiring.
    Once the swag kit is wired into the fan, follow the fan assembly of the manufacturer. The fan can then be attached to the ceiling. Swag wires are hung by u-hooks and can be plugged into an electrical outlet.

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